I have been hearing lately a lot of “so you’ve been surfing…” with hint of skepticism. Maybe surfing is my red porsche (#midlifecrisis) or I am a little deranged, but it is my new found love. I can’t get enough of it.
I first tried it in Santa Teresa, Costa Rica. At that time, I had no idea Costa Rica was the ideal place to learn how to surf. I was too green to realize the perfect conditions. Everything, including the swell, water temperature, and sandy bottom for your beginner ass to fall on, contributed to the perfect conditions to learn. Of course, the hot guys and girls who are surfing in Santa Teresa enhance the experience and make you want to buy into the whole lifestyle.
Prior to learning in Santa Teresa, surfing was a big illusion for me. I grew up in Korea until I was 13 and then lived in Michigan until I graduated college. Both of these places are cold as hell and impossible for cultivating surfers.
Like unicorns, dragons, or the tooth fairy, I thought it was just a dream. Since I wasn’t born in California or Hawaii, I thought my chances of ever learning were slim to none. BUT, I was wrong.
I learned that surfing is a lifestyle and you don’t have to be born to do it. You CAN learn and quickly, too(getting good is a long journey)! People pick it up for many different reasons. I think it’s bit like golf (surfers will kill me for even mentioning this). You play against yourself. It’s all about self improvement and not just beating someone else. Among those that I asked, many surfers told me they got into for the sheer physical challenge, self improvement, anger management, or just becoming one with the nature.
My reasons for trying are a combination of all of the above. I’ve also learned to apply what I’ve learned from surfing to my daily life. I know you have to be in motion to get a good wave, learn to be selective, patient, and that timing is everything. Surfing is good for the body, mind and soul.
Despite the not so great conditions in New York, I’m going to continue pursing my new found love since these tough conditions will undoubtedly make me a better surfer in the long run.
Who wants to come along?
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